Blog / Car
8 Easy Steps to Change a Tyre, and Ways to Avoid Getting a Flat

Tyres are hardly very exciting. They’re black and round, and out of sight–and mind–for most drivers.
But tyres are a vitally important consideration for car owners. Tyres are the only direct connection between you and the road, and quality, properly-maintained tyres may be the only difference between a safe journey and a crash.
Tyre maintenance
With no moving parts, there is little maintenance needed for tyres, but there are things you can do to maximise tyre life, and to avoid dreaded flat tyres.
- Check pressures – look up the manufacturer’s recommended tyre pressures and check them regularly. Underinflated tyres are more prone to punctures. A handheld tyre pressure monitor is likely to be more accurate than those found in petrol kiosks. Don’t forget to check the spare. Replace the valve-cap after checking pressures or inflation; its function is to keep dirt out of the valve, which helps prevent leaks.
- Check wear – wear is expected, but uneven wear may be a sign something is wrong. Wear on either the inside or outside edge could be a sign of wheel-alignment issues. Wear in the centre is indicative of over inflation. Wear on both edges is a sign of under inflation. Check the tread wear indicators, which are marks spaced along the tyre grooves that become flush with the surface when the tyres are at maximum wear. In Singapore the minimum tread-depth is 1.6mm.
- Check for damage – a cut in the sidewall, or a nail through the tread may lead to a flat tyre.
- “Rotate” the tyres – swap the front tyres with the rear – every 10,000km or so. The front tyres are more prone to wear, so rotating the tyres will make a set last longer.
Changing a flat tyre
Doing all the above will maximize tyre life and minimize the chances of a flat, but even the most carefully maintained tyres are not immune to the occasional puncture.
To change a tyre:
- Pull off the road into as safe a position as possible. Trying to change a tyre on an expressway verge is likely to be dangerous. Stop on flat ground – this will stop the vehicle rolling while you’re working on the tyre. Engage the parking brake and put the transmission in Park in an automatic, or in gear in a manual. Chock (obstruct) the wheel that is diagonally opposite the flat, if possible.
- Switch the hazard warning lights on and place an emergency triangle an appropriate distance away. This will warn approaching drivers of your stationary vehicle.
- Locate your spare tyre, wheel brace, and jack. The tyre should be in the load space, but can be underneath on some SUVs, with a bolt through the floor holding it in place. The jack is usually stored in the load space near the tyre. Check your owner’s manual though; Toyota’s engineers decided to hide the jack under the front seats in the Yaris, for instance.
- Remove the hub cap (if any) and loosen, but do not remove, the wheel nuts. Turn them counterclockwise to achieve this. You may need to apply pressure to the wheel brace with your foot, which may cause the car to rock – this is the reason to do this before jacking the car up. At this stage you only want to undo the nuts a fraction of a turn. The idea is to make sure you can loosen them. Wheel nuts shouldn’t be fastened using impact wrenches, but workshops often do this, and if this is the case you may not be able to loosen the nuts.
- Locate the jacking point – usually under the sill immediately behind the front wheels or in front of the rear wheels. Again, check your owner’s manual – and jack the car up until the bottom of the tyre is completely off the ground.
- Remove the wheel nuts and lift the wheel away. Be aware that it is likely to be heavier than you imagine after seeing Formula 1 mechanics lift them single-handed.
- Locate the spare wheel on the wheel studs and replace the nuts – the tapered ends go towards the wheel – and tighten with the wheel brace, being careful not to rock the vehicle.
- Lower the jack, and tighten the wheel nuts as much as possible. Get the old tyre repaired as soon as possible.
If you are unable to find a safe place to change tyres, or the conditions are too difficult, or if you cannot loosen the wheel nuts, you should call for help. Your vehicle distributor may offer roadside assistance, otherwise you could contact the Automobile Association of Singapore (6748 9911), or Stamford Tyres (8797 3355).
Things you need to know
- Some vehicles are equipped with ‘space-saver’ spare tyres, which are lighter, narrower items designed for short distances at reduced speeds. They have a maximum speed warning on the sidewall.
- More common in European vehicles are ‘run-flat’ tyres, which are made with stiffer sidewalls that can be used even when deflated. Usually these vehicles are fitted with tyre pressure monitoring systems and a warning light on the dash.
- In urban driving the chances of getting a puncture are minimal. Flat tyres are more likely to be the result of leaking valves. If you have to inflate a tyre regularly it may have a slow leak – most likely because of the valve. Have it checked and replaced if necessary.
Buying tyres
If you are buying tyres, choose the best quality ones you can get – a few hundred dollars spent here could save thousands in the future. Quality tyres will provide more grip – and therefore greater safety – in wet and in dry conditions.
Be aware that some tyres designed for track days or sports cars may sacrifice durability for more grip. A professional tyre fitter will be able to advise what is best for you.
Wheel balancing is a standard part of tyre fitting, but it is also worth paying the (likely) extra cost to have the wheel-alignment done. Wheels – particularly front wheels – will have specified toe-in (most cars are slightly pigeon-toed by design), and camber (most front wheels lean in slightly at the top). If the alignment is out, they tyres will wear unnecessarily quickly.
It is worth having the wheel alignment checked if you have hit a curb, or if the tyres are wearing unevenly.